The Holiday Tree Illuminates for the First Time After the Outbreak of the Gaza War

Throughout a two-year period during the conflict in Gaza, every festive public event marking the holiday season were called off in Bethlehem located in the West Bank. This city is where Christians believe Jesus was born.

However, after a recent truce, this sacred city determined that now celebrations would return, as represented by the lighting of its traditional, giant Christmas tree before the historic Nativity Church.

"It's been a bad two years of silence; no Christmas, no jobs, no work," remarks the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "Our community survives from tourism and tourism had fallen to zero."

He acknowledges that the decision of resuming celebrations was not without controversy, as suffering continues within Gaza – including for those in its small Christian population, who often have family ties to Bethlehem.

"Some may say it is unsuitable and others say it is fitting," the mayor notes. "However, in my heart, I felt this constituted the right thing to take because the Christmas season must never be halted or abandoned. This represents the light of hope for our community."

A Spark of Celebration Reappears

Residents – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – take photographs before the tree decorated with gold and red ornaments at Manger Square. They are accompanied by a handful of foreign tourists.

Brightly coloured lights now adorn city streets and there are signs promoting holiday markets and children's parties.

"We're very happy to see the tree, first thing, and to welcome visitors to Bethlehem and to have the chance to celebrate Christmas in its authentic spirit," comments local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.

"This place is where it all started, therefore here is where we can convey the message to the world of what really Christmas represents. And this year, if Christmas is peaceful, then I hope it will bring a nice message for the entire world."

Economic Hopes and Challenges

Nearby towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to illuminate holiday trees in the coming days. Hotels – which have remained largely empty for the past two years – have an influx in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel along with certain international tourists.

One tourist from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "I think every person should visit at least once during their lifetime," she says.

"I hope a lot of people will soon come back as it is sorrowful with few tourists. The sole aspect that is positive is there are no long lines – you can come and experience more. On my prior visit it was necessary to wait in a queue for hours at least."

For now, the souvenir stores scattered throughout the city experience scant trade, and near the pale walls of the Church of the Nativity, which originate from the 4th century, tour guides largely stand idle. Before the conflict, it was typically packed with people.

"This is a tourist city; absent visitors there is no livelihood," expresses one guide Hamza. "We aspire to have people coming back like before: from European nations, the Middle East, the Americas, Latin America and all over. We begin with the Christmas tree lighting, and then we will wait."

The Persistent Economic Impact

In the past two years, unemployment has skyrocketed within Bethlehem. Following the lethal attacks led by Hamas on southern Israel in October 2023 which triggered the war, tens of thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank region have been prevented from entering Israel and its settlements for work.

Meanwhile, government employees have received only partial salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – which governs parts of the West Bank. The PA relies on tax income collected by Israel, which it is withholding – amounting to 1.76 billion dollars, according to the UN's trade and development agency.

Israeli officials state they are retaining these funds because the Authority provides financial payments to Palestinian prisoners that incentivise attacks on Israelis. The PA – which has been under global pressure to make reforms – says it has lately modified its welfare system.

A Modest Holiday

The bleak economic outlook implies that for numerous Palestinian Christians, even though there are currently public events in addition to religious ceremonies, it will be a subdued holiday season.

At the edge of Manger Square, some patrons wait to buy sizzling balls of falafel from a row of shops.

"We are getting ready for the holiday following one of our hardest periods as Palestinians and as Christians," says one restaurant owner, an owner of Afteem, a decades-old family restaurant that has witnessed its income plummet. He says lately numerous families could not even afford falafel – a cheap, traditional food.

"Christians will try to mark the occasion but based on their situation," Mr Salameh expects. "Someone who wants to bring their children to a festival or a show or whatever, they lack the money to expend for this celebration."

Hopes for Peace and Prosperity

Within the grotto at the base of the Nativity Church, a local woman follows a tour group from India, bending down by a silver star which marks the spot where tradition states Jesus was born and lighting a light close by.

With tensions still high across the region, people in Bethlehem say they are praying for peace – and hoping for tourists to come back to the place where it is believed Christmas began.

Teresa Greene
Teresa Greene

Travel enthusiast and local expert sharing insights on the best places to stay and visit in Bari and beyond.